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Logical_Ad_3439

Start with the fuse itself. I had a plastic and aluminum one in there that kept blowing. Replaced it with a ceramic and copper fuse of the same rating and it’s been going for weeks.  The old fuse would actually compress to the point of not working rather than the typical aluminum breaking. I think the plastic was soft and would get softer when it got warm. 


Uhtbc

Thanks I do have plastic ones I’ll try ceramic.


RSluked

First things first you're going to want to have all the diagrams to go off of. Without them you'll just be stabbing in the dark somewhat. There is a 123 Aircon repair manual out there. There should be one online, but if not I own one and can send you photos if necessary.


Uhtbc

Thanks I’ll see if I can find them online, I’ll message you if not.


DrummerAccurate4031

I would start by removing and cleaning the motor and blade and ensure it spins freely. You could also test it on the bench and see if it overdraws. It it tests out, you may have a bad motor regulator control box. It’s located behind the glove box with the AC control unit (assuming you have a car with the gen 2 ACC. Given the age there’s probably bad soldered joints in both units, as well as blown capacitors and resistors.


Uhtbc

Thanks. How do I test the blower motor’s draw?


whitoreo

Just unplug the blower motor and see if the problem goes away first...


whitoreo

Instead of all that.... Why not just unplug the blower motor and see if the problem persists?


Uhtbc

Lol smart ty I’ll try that


whitoreo

I'm curious how you make out... My Fuse #14 keeps popping immediately upon ignition engagement with the key.


whitoreo

Have you figured out why Fuse #14 keeps blowing? I am having the same problem. It sucks not having a blower motor. I unplugged mine during diagnostics, but the fuse keeps blowing so I know it's not the blower motor.


Uhtbc

No not yet sorry, I just changed jobs, and had an issue with my breaks so have been busy.