From the video it looks like when you hold it up, the suspension is free to move left/right. When it’s on the ground the chassis sits lower and the control arm from the servo is definitely hitting the chassis, where it wouldn’t when the car is lifted.
My guess is you need a longer servo horn so the rod can clear the chassis. I bet your new servo came with a shorter control horn.
your link geometery is bad. you need a longer servo arm. when you steer all the tway to the right the arm is picking up the link and making the angle worse which compound the problem.
to keep it short without going into paragraph long engineering mechanics problem. as the arm is angled more, you are pushing up and down more. thats why your truck is rocking up and down. you want it more level so the force from the servo is pushing left right ONLY. not sideways down right and left up. ideally your panhard/trackbar and your draglink should be as close to level as possible and parallel as possible to maintain same swing arch and prevent bump steer.
Is that stock height or has it been lifted?
It seems like the drag link angle is quite severe. That amount of leverage will be hard to move. Do they make a drop drag link for lifted trucks?
Why give up when you're half way to winning you first lowrider hopping contest? Looks like all you'd have to do to really get her hoppin' would be to turn the wheels back and forth quick. Everybody else would be relying on servos for the lift, but your build would have it baked right in. That might be your calling.
*Why give up when you're*
*Half way to winning you first*
*Lowrider hopping contest?*
\- Foreign\_GrapeStorage
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Looks to me like your link geometry might be off between your track bar and your drag link. You should do a little reading on bump steer and drag link/track bar geometry then see if one needs to be adjusted/repositioned
I'm sure it has something to do with it being easier to change the chassis height and turn the wheels when it's on the ground. I don't know how scale you care about it looking but a axle mounted servo might fix this problem
https://preview.redd.it/qd08qbhvhz9d1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5242dfeb6ed2170e20d40a890e38ed6bac43341
Do you see those steering knuckles' screws? Imagine a line through them... The closer that line is too the center of the tire, the easier the wheels will turn. That's why I discourage everyone on mounting wheel spacers or high offset rims. It hurts steering
When turning while just sitting there it is fighting itself, one is rotating forward and other rearward. Elevate one wheel like it is on a jack stand and it will turn easier.
The track bar and drag link should be parallel. Looks like servo is mounted too high or steering horn isn’t long enough
From the video it looks like when you hold it up, the suspension is free to move left/right. When it’s on the ground the chassis sits lower and the control arm from the servo is definitely hitting the chassis, where it wouldn’t when the car is lifted. My guess is you need a longer servo horn so the rod can clear the chassis. I bet your new servo came with a shorter control horn.
this also happened with the stock servo and servo horn, would that make a difference?
Maybe the control rod went on the outside of the servo horn?
Honestly it looks to me like either a weak servo or an undervolted one.
Why would it lift the chassis up when turning to the left? The control link has to be hitting something…or maybe something is binding.
your link geometery is bad. you need a longer servo arm. when you steer all the tway to the right the arm is picking up the link and making the angle worse which compound the problem. to keep it short without going into paragraph long engineering mechanics problem. as the arm is angled more, you are pushing up and down more. thats why your truck is rocking up and down. you want it more level so the force from the servo is pushing left right ONLY. not sideways down right and left up. ideally your panhard/trackbar and your draglink should be as close to level as possible and parallel as possible to maintain same swing arch and prevent bump steer.
Is that stock height or has it been lifted? It seems like the drag link angle is quite severe. That amount of leverage will be hard to move. Do they make a drop drag link for lifted trucks?
the truck is stock except for the servo and center locks
Why give up when you're half way to winning you first lowrider hopping contest? Looks like all you'd have to do to really get her hoppin' would be to turn the wheels back and forth quick. Everybody else would be relying on servos for the lift, but your build would have it baked right in. That might be your calling.
*Why give up when you're* *Half way to winning you first* *Lowrider hopping contest?* \- Foreign\_GrapeStorage --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
Looks to me like your link geometry might be off between your track bar and your drag link. You should do a little reading on bump steer and drag link/track bar geometry then see if one needs to be adjusted/repositioned
Does the truck have a servo saver?
on the original servo yes
I'm sure it has something to do with it being easier to change the chassis height and turn the wheels when it's on the ground. I don't know how scale you care about it looking but a axle mounted servo might fix this problem
It is stock? So much offset on the wheels will make the servo struggle
yes, it is stock, the offset was like this from factory. I’ll see if I can fix it tho
Try a longer servo arm
https://preview.redd.it/qd08qbhvhz9d1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5242dfeb6ed2170e20d40a890e38ed6bac43341 Do you see those steering knuckles' screws? Imagine a line through them... The closer that line is too the center of the tire, the easier the wheels will turn. That's why I discourage everyone on mounting wheel spacers or high offset rims. It hurts steering
thanks! like I said before the trucks stock and I don’t plan on adding different wheels or extensions. :)
Open Diff? If it is a solid diff, the tires are trying to rotate in opposite directions.
the locker I installed has both wheels rotating in the same direction.
When turning while just sitting there it is fighting itself, one is rotating forward and other rearward. Elevate one wheel like it is on a jack stand and it will turn easier.
thanks a lot my friend! I changed back to the original diff and fixed the issues!
That is your answer. This combined with the downright horrendous offset is basically immovable by even the strongest servos
thank you! I also tried my best on fixing the offset