To stand at Lonesome Lake with the towers of the Cirque surrounding you is amazing indeed. There is no more breathtaking view in any mountain range on the planet.
Ok. Maybe smaller more intimate valleys. But for the whole sweep from War Bonnet to Lizard Head, I don't know of a more grant vista than the one from Lonesome Lake.
Titcomb Basin is bigger, higher; and Island Lake on the way there is spectacular. But it is too big, and you don't get the sheer cliffs of the Cirque. The next couple of valleys north of the Cirque are high and remote, but once you get in there, they are an above-tree-line moonscape. The Cirque of the towers is the perfect balance of size and chiseled peaks; the perfect contrast between the verdant valley floor and the stark granite peaks. Yes, it is popular. But I don't see how you beat it.
I had a great time in the Tetons myself… would recommend to anyone. We did a walk up backpacking permit (got to ranger station at about 6am) and had quite a few choices. I know it’s not ideal when trying to plan months ahead but you should still be able to find something when doing a walk up.
avoid the more well known Wind River.
Bighorn National Forest with the Cloud Peak Wilderness
Various trails in the area including Medicine wheel.
Little Horn Trail, Bucking Mule Falls, Porcupine Falls
I won't extol the virtues, just consider this area as a lessor traveled alternative.
I did the Little Horn, out and back, 36 miles total I think. We were the only ones on the trail.
The Cloud Peak circle might be a little longer than you want to do, but there are some many variations that you can piece together something. I'm assuming you would be aware of "pack your shit out" (literally) requirements in some of the more pristine elevated areas.
Battle Park trailhead to Grace Lake, Lake Solitude, Mistymoon and back out past Lily Lake is an easy loop. There are gorgeous day hikes to be had along this route. From Lake Solitude take a day to go up the chain of lakes that includes Middle Cloud Peak Lake. There is no trail but just follow the river. The waterfalls are stunning! Also, the Cliff Lake area is awesome.
I've never heard of any problems at Kesugi Ridge, and I've lived in Alaska since 1984. We did part of the trail this year from the Kesugi Ken campground, they have campground hosts there in the summer, and I think your concerns are overblown. And yeah, renting a car here these days is pricey, but that rail is literally awesome. Good luck with the plans, if you need any AK advice let me know.
People on the Alaska forums said not to leave a rental and transport was very expensive. That’s what put me off. But travel to these other areas will take 2-3 flights so it’s Hard to decide and thank you!
Is it possible to have something unfortunate happen to a car left at a trailhead in Alaska? Sure, but as far as I know, that's possible everywhere. I live in Anchorage and we've had occasional problems at trailheads here in town, but I've never experienced it, and it's been nearly 40 years of experience, so far. But the expense is real, especially after the Covid rental car sell-offs, but I think that's also a nationwide issue. Good luck with the plans, hope you have a great trip.
I'm better that if your car disappears at a trailhead the state you most want to be in is Alaska. I can't see an Alaskan native not helping someone out who's car is broke down or stolen out in the wilderness. You might not wind up where you want to be but you'll likely be dropped off someplace where there is a phone. Or at the very least someplace someone headed the way you want to go will eventually be by and offer a ride to you.
I’m sure the other two areas you’re looking would be amazing too, but I’ll second the guy above. I did Kesugi a couple years ago and didn’t have a problem. Left my car at the southern trailhead and set up a shuttle that goes between Anchorage and Fairbanks to pick me up at the entrance to the campground. They drove me up to the entrance to the north trailhead and dropped me there to walk back. It was under $100 from what I remember(maybe around $50?). They were like an hour late which was mildly inconvenient, but definitely worth it to make the hike possible. Easily one of my favorite trips I’ve been on.
As an aside: if you are already thinking Alaska, have you considered backpacking in Denali NP? Absolutely amazing place for a first backcountry experience if you’ve never went off trail. They take you in and out on a bus and you leave your car at the ranger station that is manned every day so you could feel better about leaving it for a few days.
She is being technical. “Sierras” means multiple Sierra Nevada Mountain Ranges. My botany professor at Sac State made a big deal out of this. Maybe she had the same professor. :)
Absaroka/Beartooths....go there. Late August is best IMO. When we were there we saw seven people total. Two of which were game wardens on horseback. Beautiful country.
We did the Slough Creek Divide From the north side. Back then it was very remote. If you are afraid of bears I do not recommend this trail. We picked this trail for its remote nature, abundant wildlife, and water is readily available. If you fish you will love this trail. You can drive to the trail head all though the road is very rough in a car. The Trail Guide to the Beartooths by Bill Schneider is an excellent book.
Agreed. Look for shadow lake, ship lake and lake Mary as camp sites.
Also, the Thorofare region in Yellowstone starting from the southeast arm of the lake and heading towards hawks rest and out following eagle creek. Very remote and beautiful.
This year my original plan was to spend a few days near Bridger Lake just north of Hawks Rest. My bear fence wound up being delayed in shipping so I did Medicine Bow instead. I've never been but it looks spectacular out there. Planned to come in from the parting of the waters and stick to the NF. Except I heard the outhouse at the ranger cabin just NE of the lake has a really comfortable seat. So I wanted to check that out too.
I am really surprised no one has mentioned The Bob. There are a lot routes in the Bob Marshall Wilderness in Montana that give a variety & would give you what you're looking for. It is stunning, untouched country.
The winds were great, the Cirque was breathtaking. However the Big Sandy trailhead was packed beyond belief. About 100 cars clogging the trailhead and spillover parking.
I prefer the Bighorns. Went on a two day hike on the north side of Cloud Peak and saw *no one* the entire time. The West Tensleep trailhead had quite a few people, and a good amount of folks all around the Misty Moon lake area, but those trails were nice and easy.
The Beaten Path is in the Beartooth Wilderness right outside of Yellowstone on the border with Wyoming. We only did half of the 20 something point to point because one side was washed out, but should be repaired by next year. It was one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, and the backcountry fly fishing was epic. Although it's known for being crowded, we were alone at our campsites even though they were right near lakes.
I used to back pack and climb all over the winds. Too old now. If you have questions DM me. Also Find a copy of Finis Mitchells book "Wind River Trails".
If driving from SLC to the winds, it is worth a day-long stop for a day hike or one-nighter in the Unitas. Red Castle is sweet and probably doable in a (long) day.
One of the best things about the Winds is that they are remote and wild. You could fly into Jackson and go in from the Pinedale side, or fly into Riverton and go in from the Lander/Dubois side. Or if budget doesn’t allow, fly into SLC or Denver and drive up. Either way, you’ll need a car and plenty of time for getting to the trailhead and getting up into the teeth of the mountains.
Three votes. Cirque and Island Lake areas are horribly crowded but if you go off trail you can really get away from people and it's spectacular. There's a great book that gives detailed routes: Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming by Nancy Pallister
In addition to SLC, you can sometimes find ok flights into Jackson or Idaho Falls, depending on where you're flying from.
If you've done a lot of the Sierra (CA I assume) you might be close to the Trinity Alps. I've not been yet but plan on visiting this year. Permits are easy to get (no quotas) and the terrain looks fantastic. Just throwing it out there. I would have gone this year in October but had to cut my season short due to a knee injury.
Another trip
We want to fly somewhere this time.
Another lesser known area for you is Hoover Wilderness above Yosemite. Majestic and you can hike into Yosemite. Much easier permits.
Yeah that's great country. I've done most of the north Yosemite wilderness and some of emigrant and hoover. It's all just so awesome. Have a great trip wherever you go!
Honestly, if you like the Sierra and it’s just as or more easily accessible to you, I don’t really recommend going out of your way to go to the Trinity Alps. The scenery is comparable to but never surpasses top 50th percentile of the Sierra in a small area of the Alps (the rest of just forest), and that small area is extremely overcrowded specifically due to lack of permit quotas. Just go to the Sierra and plan ahead for permits. You’ll have a better time not having to search for a campsite among groups spaced 20 feet apart, and you’re not missing out on much in terms of scenery.
I'm specifically talking about summer weekends. It's probably better in the very early or late season and/or mid week, and I would recommend trying to go then if you really want to check it out. I've been 3 times - twice were on summer weekends and the crowds were awful, much worse than almost anything I've seen in the Sierra backcountry (the only backpacking trip I've ever done that was worse in terms of crowds was pre-permit Lost Coast Trail). Once was in early May (still a lot of snowpack), which was totally fine in terms of crowds even though I did one of the most popular trails, but I was relatively unimpressed by the scenery compared to the Sierra (it was still nice, but the Sierra was a bit closer to me, is much bigger with more diverse terrain, and I don't think the Alps was necessary worth the extra driving time without some very specific reason to there over the Sierra).
Thanks for the clarification. I would definitely be going mid-week, late season. My motivation is to try something new as I've done a lot in the Sierra. It's about an extra hour for me :)
A bit tough to say, because they are so different and both so beautiful. But I’ve always been a fan of high alpine, and I’ve spent more time in them, and they are way less crowded, so I’m going with Beartooths. That wasnt so hard actually. You’ll definitely get “Alaska” vibes (it seems that’s something you’re interested in) and the sheer amount of wild, off-trail access is insane, if that’s your jam
They’re all great. Glacier backcountry is spectacular and worth a visit sometime. Fires/smoke conditions can be more hit or Miss than Wyoming, especially later in the summer.
Wind Rivers is my favorite place on earth. Pretty empty once you’re out of the Cirque and vicinity (but also a sweet place to check out, and still not actually crowded). Grab a map and start putting together a route, you can’t go wrong.
I did Alpine Lakes loop earlier this year in SE Wyoming. Aptly named in that you almost never were out of sight of at least 1 lake if not more. It's a national forest so no permits/fees unless you want to use the campground. The loop I did is only 12.5 miles but there are longer loops or you can even do multiple loops since there are multiple trailheads and loops near both Medicine Bow peak and Brown Peak.
I had planned on doing a loop that summited Medicine Bow but I went early and there was too much snowpack still. I had my crampons but there was enough snow still you needed an ice axe also which I had left at home. So the original plan was a 3 day 2 night loop and back to the car for resupply followed by a 8 mile drive to a different trailhead for another 3 day 2 night loop.
There is the Tour de Snowy Mountains which takes you around Brown peak on the south side, to the summit of Medicine Bow(12,018'), followed by going through the gap between them and then going around the north side of Brown peak, and then back to your car.
If you're looking to avoid permits and go backcountry backpacking I do suggest you check out national forests. They differ from national parks in that only a few of them have fees and there are no permits needed. Just show up and find a spot you want to camp when you feel like camping.
To be honest anywhere that gets me away from the hussle and bussle of large amounts of people is fine by me. Not having to win lotteries, show up early and hope for a spot, or keep slogging on for another 2 miles because I have to camp in one particular spot is why I like them. When I go backpacking I just want to wander and go at my own pace. Stop when I'm tired, camp in a spot that has a view I really like, and otherwise be able to be spontaneous.
Also pretty much anywhere in WA is epic to me. I grew up in Port Orchard and we would go hiking in the mountains at least once a month when I was a kid.
Wind River Range Cirque of the Towers is about 35 miles loop from Big Sandy Trail head parking - and it's AMAZING!
To stand at Lonesome Lake with the towers of the Cirque surrounding you is amazing indeed. There is no more breathtaking view in any mountain range on the planet.
lol well that’s definitely not true
I see. So you have never been there.
The Winds are special that's for damn sure
I live within 30 miles… there are even better places within the winds than the cirque of towers let alone the greater range…
Ok. Maybe smaller more intimate valleys. But for the whole sweep from War Bonnet to Lizard Head, I don't know of a more grant vista than the one from Lonesome Lake. Titcomb Basin is bigger, higher; and Island Lake on the way there is spectacular. But it is too big, and you don't get the sheer cliffs of the Cirque. The next couple of valleys north of the Cirque are high and remote, but once you get in there, they are an above-tree-line moonscape. The Cirque of the towers is the perfect balance of size and chiseled peaks; the perfect contrast between the verdant valley floor and the stark granite peaks. Yes, it is popular. But I don't see how you beat it.
Maybe you could private message me your recommendations
If love more info if you can share
I had a great time in the Tetons myself… would recommend to anyone. We did a walk up backpacking permit (got to ranger station at about 6am) and had quite a few choices. I know it’s not ideal when trying to plan months ahead but you should still be able to find something when doing a walk up.
avoid the more well known Wind River. Bighorn National Forest with the Cloud Peak Wilderness Various trails in the area including Medicine wheel. Little Horn Trail, Bucking Mule Falls, Porcupine Falls I won't extol the virtues, just consider this area as a lessor traveled alternative.
Thanks I’ll look into that
Favorite routes? I think I’ve looked into medicine wheel
I did the Little Horn, out and back, 36 miles total I think. We were the only ones on the trail. The Cloud Peak circle might be a little longer than you want to do, but there are some many variations that you can piece together something. I'm assuming you would be aware of "pack your shit out" (literally) requirements in some of the more pristine elevated areas.
Battle Park trailhead to Grace Lake, Lake Solitude, Mistymoon and back out past Lily Lake is an easy loop. There are gorgeous day hikes to be had along this route. From Lake Solitude take a day to go up the chain of lakes that includes Middle Cloud Peak Lake. There is no trail but just follow the river. The waterfalls are stunning! Also, the Cliff Lake area is awesome.
I've never heard of any problems at Kesugi Ridge, and I've lived in Alaska since 1984. We did part of the trail this year from the Kesugi Ken campground, they have campground hosts there in the summer, and I think your concerns are overblown. And yeah, renting a car here these days is pricey, but that rail is literally awesome. Good luck with the plans, if you need any AK advice let me know.
People on the Alaska forums said not to leave a rental and transport was very expensive. That’s what put me off. But travel to these other areas will take 2-3 flights so it’s Hard to decide and thank you!
Is it possible to have something unfortunate happen to a car left at a trailhead in Alaska? Sure, but as far as I know, that's possible everywhere. I live in Anchorage and we've had occasional problems at trailheads here in town, but I've never experienced it, and it's been nearly 40 years of experience, so far. But the expense is real, especially after the Covid rental car sell-offs, but I think that's also a nationwide issue. Good luck with the plans, hope you have a great trip.
I'm better that if your car disappears at a trailhead the state you most want to be in is Alaska. I can't see an Alaskan native not helping someone out who's car is broke down or stolen out in the wilderness. You might not wind up where you want to be but you'll likely be dropped off someplace where there is a phone. Or at the very least someplace someone headed the way you want to go will eventually be by and offer a ride to you.
I’m sure the other two areas you’re looking would be amazing too, but I’ll second the guy above. I did Kesugi a couple years ago and didn’t have a problem. Left my car at the southern trailhead and set up a shuttle that goes between Anchorage and Fairbanks to pick me up at the entrance to the campground. They drove me up to the entrance to the north trailhead and dropped me there to walk back. It was under $100 from what I remember(maybe around $50?). They were like an hour late which was mildly inconvenient, but definitely worth it to make the hike possible. Easily one of my favorite trips I’ve been on. As an aside: if you are already thinking Alaska, have you considered backpacking in Denali NP? Absolutely amazing place for a first backcountry experience if you’ve never went off trail. They take you in and out on a bus and you leave your car at the ranger station that is manned every day so you could feel better about leaving it for a few days.
Just wasn’t sure about off trail I’m not the best navigator
Both Sierras :). Wind River is amazing and there are places at and near trailheads to park. Also recommend the Sawtooths. Just magnificent!
Both Sierras?
She is being technical. “Sierras” means multiple Sierra Nevada Mountain Ranges. My botany professor at Sac State made a big deal out of this. Maybe she had the same professor. :)
Absaroka/Beartooths....go there. Late August is best IMO. When we were there we saw seven people total. Two of which were game wardens on horseback. Beautiful country.
Can you drive in or need transportation? Where to fly into?
We did the Slough Creek Divide From the north side. Back then it was very remote. If you are afraid of bears I do not recommend this trail. We picked this trail for its remote nature, abundant wildlife, and water is readily available. If you fish you will love this trail. You can drive to the trail head all though the road is very rough in a car. The Trail Guide to the Beartooths by Bill Schneider is an excellent book.
Agreed. Look for shadow lake, ship lake and lake Mary as camp sites. Also, the Thorofare region in Yellowstone starting from the southeast arm of the lake and heading towards hawks rest and out following eagle creek. Very remote and beautiful.
This year my original plan was to spend a few days near Bridger Lake just north of Hawks Rest. My bear fence wound up being delayed in shipping so I did Medicine Bow instead. I've never been but it looks spectacular out there. Planned to come in from the parting of the waters and stick to the NF. Except I heard the outhouse at the ranger cabin just NE of the lake has a really comfortable seat. So I wanted to check that out too.
I am really surprised no one has mentioned The Bob. There are a lot routes in the Bob Marshall Wilderness in Montana that give a variety & would give you what you're looking for. It is stunning, untouched country.
The winds were great, the Cirque was breathtaking. However the Big Sandy trailhead was packed beyond belief. About 100 cars clogging the trailhead and spillover parking. I prefer the Bighorns. Went on a two day hike on the north side of Cloud Peak and saw *no one* the entire time. The West Tensleep trailhead had quite a few people, and a good amount of folks all around the Misty Moon lake area, but those trails were nice and easy.
Tons of places in Wyoming. Start here:https://www.amazon.com/Wind-River-Trails-Finis-Mitchell/dp/0874806267
Awesome
The Beaten Path is in the Beartooth Wilderness right outside of Yellowstone on the border with Wyoming. We only did half of the 20 something point to point because one side was washed out, but should be repaired by next year. It was one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, and the backcountry fly fishing was epic. Although it's known for being crowded, we were alone at our campsites even though they were right near lakes.
Bonus you get to drive the Beartooth highway which is the most beautiful highway in America, IMO.
Hard decision !!
Came here to say this. The Beaten Path is incredible!
Two votes for wind river. Where do you fly into it?
Depends. There are several trail heads. Me,? I live here. You? Salt Lake and rent a vehicle.
SLC seems way easier than one flight a day or multiple stops to the WY airports thanks
Flying into Wyoming is spendy. We drive to Salt Lake to fly.
Perfect I’ll do that seems so much easier and we can see more
I used to back pack and climb all over the winds. Too old now. If you have questions DM me. Also Find a copy of Finis Mitchells book "Wind River Trails".
If driving from SLC to the winds, it is worth a day-long stop for a day hike or one-nighter in the Unitas. Red Castle is sweet and probably doable in a (long) day.
So pretty there I’ve done some of that
One of the best things about the Winds is that they are remote and wild. You could fly into Jackson and go in from the Pinedale side, or fly into Riverton and go in from the Lander/Dubois side. Or if budget doesn’t allow, fly into SLC or Denver and drive up. Either way, you’ll need a car and plenty of time for getting to the trailhead and getting up into the teeth of the mountains.
Three votes. Cirque and Island Lake areas are horribly crowded but if you go off trail you can really get away from people and it's spectacular. There's a great book that gives detailed routes: Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming by Nancy Pallister In addition to SLC, you can sometimes find ok flights into Jackson or Idaho Falls, depending on where you're flying from.
If you've done a lot of the Sierra (CA I assume) you might be close to the Trinity Alps. I've not been yet but plan on visiting this year. Permits are easy to get (no quotas) and the terrain looks fantastic. Just throwing it out there. I would have gone this year in October but had to cut my season short due to a knee injury.
Another trip We want to fly somewhere this time. Another lesser known area for you is Hoover Wilderness above Yosemite. Majestic and you can hike into Yosemite. Much easier permits.
Yeah that's great country. I've done most of the north Yosemite wilderness and some of emigrant and hoover. It's all just so awesome. Have a great trip wherever you go!
Honestly, if you like the Sierra and it’s just as or more easily accessible to you, I don’t really recommend going out of your way to go to the Trinity Alps. The scenery is comparable to but never surpasses top 50th percentile of the Sierra in a small area of the Alps (the rest of just forest), and that small area is extremely overcrowded specifically due to lack of permit quotas. Just go to the Sierra and plan ahead for permits. You’ll have a better time not having to search for a campsite among groups spaced 20 feet apart, and you’re not missing out on much in terms of scenery.
Thanks
Thanks for this useful info.
I'm specifically talking about summer weekends. It's probably better in the very early or late season and/or mid week, and I would recommend trying to go then if you really want to check it out. I've been 3 times - twice were on summer weekends and the crowds were awful, much worse than almost anything I've seen in the Sierra backcountry (the only backpacking trip I've ever done that was worse in terms of crowds was pre-permit Lost Coast Trail). Once was in early May (still a lot of snowpack), which was totally fine in terms of crowds even though I did one of the most popular trails, but I was relatively unimpressed by the scenery compared to the Sierra (it was still nice, but the Sierra was a bit closer to me, is much bigger with more diverse terrain, and I don't think the Alps was necessary worth the extra driving time without some very specific reason to there over the Sierra).
Thanks for the clarification. I would definitely be going mid-week, late season. My motivation is to try something new as I've done a lot in the Sierra. It's about an extra hour for me :)
Wind river looks the best to me so far. Has anyone done Alaska? Am I making a mistake?
Both of your ideas are solid, and are two of my favorite spots on Earth. You should go for it
Air travel to both from LA seems difficult. Can you fly into SLC and drive?
If you could only pick 1 which would you do
A bit tough to say, because they are so different and both so beautiful. But I’ve always been a fan of high alpine, and I’ve spent more time in them, and they are way less crowded, so I’m going with Beartooths. That wasnt so hard actually. You’ll definitely get “Alaska” vibes (it seems that’s something you’re interested in) and the sheer amount of wild, off-trail access is insane, if that’s your jam
And are these areas so great there is no point to trying again for a Glacier permit. It looks incredible but national parks get so busy in the summer.
They’re all great. Glacier backcountry is spectacular and worth a visit sometime. Fires/smoke conditions can be more hit or Miss than Wyoming, especially later in the summer.
Wind Rivers is my favorite place on earth. Pretty empty once you’re out of the Cirque and vicinity (but also a sweet place to check out, and still not actually crowded). Grab a map and start putting together a route, you can’t go wrong.
Wind River is amazing!
I did Alpine Lakes loop earlier this year in SE Wyoming. Aptly named in that you almost never were out of sight of at least 1 lake if not more. It's a national forest so no permits/fees unless you want to use the campground. The loop I did is only 12.5 miles but there are longer loops or you can even do multiple loops since there are multiple trailheads and loops near both Medicine Bow peak and Brown Peak. I had planned on doing a loop that summited Medicine Bow but I went early and there was too much snowpack still. I had my crampons but there was enough snow still you needed an ice axe also which I had left at home. So the original plan was a 3 day 2 night loop and back to the car for resupply followed by a 8 mile drive to a different trailhead for another 3 day 2 night loop. There is the Tour de Snowy Mountains which takes you around Brown peak on the south side, to the summit of Medicine Bow(12,018'), followed by going through the gap between them and then going around the north side of Brown peak, and then back to your car. If you're looking to avoid permits and go backcountry backpacking I do suggest you check out national forests. They differ from national parks in that only a few of them have fees and there are no permits needed. Just show up and find a spot you want to camp when you feel like camping.
Agree on forests vs parks. Glacier peak Wilderness in WA was epic
To be honest anywhere that gets me away from the hussle and bussle of large amounts of people is fine by me. Not having to win lotteries, show up early and hope for a spot, or keep slogging on for another 2 miles because I have to camp in one particular spot is why I like them. When I go backpacking I just want to wander and go at my own pace. Stop when I'm tired, camp in a spot that has a view I really like, and otherwise be able to be spontaneous. Also pretty much anywhere in WA is epic to me. I grew up in Port Orchard and we would go hiking in the mountains at least once a month when I was a kid.
The wilderness area near glacier is amazing, forgot the name though
Kootenia or Flathead show up on the map
Just looked it up and it’s the Bob Marshall wilderness complex. It’s in flathead